Making my first dance dress (Bustier dress with bra cup) | My perfect wedding series - Ep 6

Welcome or welcome back to my channel!

In today's tutorial, I'm going to share with you how I made my first dance dress. It's also my party dress after too.

So I hope you can get come inspiration out of it. Let’s get started!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Main fabric: 4m of sequin & 4m of thick stain fabric
Lining fabric: 4m of lining fabric
Pattern paper
Sewing machine
Pins
Scissors
Ruler
Long stick
Zipper
Buttons

MAKING THE PATTERNS

Here’s the pattern for the project. To get a clear understanding of all the measurements needed for the pattern, watch the video from 1:20 to 14:00.

Remember, you can adjust these measurements to fit your own dimensions!

THE BASIC BACK BODICE PATTERN

To make the basic pattern, draw a straight line cutting the horizontal line of the paper first. After that, draw another straight line at 2 cm from the first one.

From the cutting point between the second straight line and the horizontal line, mark up 7.5 cm, which is half of the neck size. Then, draw a perpendicular line from this mark. The width of this line will be 3 cm, which is the depth of the neck at the back bodice.
Next, draw a straight line from the end of the perpendicular line to cut the horizontal line.
Draw a slanted line to connect this cutting point to the mark of the neck made earlier.
After that, mark the middle of the slanted line before connecting it to the end of the perpendicular line.
Continue marking the middle of the new slanted line before connecting it to the mark on the neck and the one on the horizontal line. Based on it, draw a slightly curved line to finish the neckline of the back bodice.
From the end of the second straight line, mark another one at 16 cm, which is half of the shoulder size.
Then, draw a perpendicular line from this mark. The width of this new line will be 2.8 cm, which is 1/10 of the shoulder size minus 0.5 cm. After that, connect that mark to the one on the neck to finish the shoulder line of the back bodice.
Draw another straight line at 21 cm from the second one. This is a quarter of the bust size plus 1 cm.
After that, mark at 19 cm on this line, which is a quarter of the bust size minus 1 cm.
Continue the perpendicular line from the shoulder to cut the bust line.
From the cutting point, mark inside 1.5 cm, then connect this mark to the end of the shoulder line.
Mark the middle of this new line before connecting it to the mark on the bust line made earlier.
Continue marking the middle of the new line before connecting it to the end of the slanted line next to it.
Repeat the same for the new line.
Then, draw a slightly curved line from the mark on the bust line to the middle of this line to the end of the shoulder line to finish the sleeve line of the back bodice.
From the second straight line, draw another one at 41 cm from it. This is the width from the shoulder to 2 cm above the belly button. It's also the length of the back bodice.
On this new straight line, mark up at 18 cm, which is a quarter of the waist size plus 2 cm for the dart that will be created later.
Then, connect this mark to the end of the sleeve line to create the sideline of the back bodice, making it a big curve after that.
Mark the middle of the waistline first, then draw a horizontal line through that mark and cut the bust line at one point.
Make two more marks at 1 cm to each side of the first one on the waistline.
At the other end of the horizontal line, mark inside 1 cm.
Connect this mark to the two marks made earlier to create the dart at the back bodice.

THE BASIC FRONT BODICE PATTERN

For the front bodice pattern, do the same as the back bodice by drawing two straight lines cutting the horizontal line of the paper first. Instead of creating the neckline from the second straight line, do it on the first one.
The depth of the front neck will be 9.5 cm instead of 3 cm at the back bodice. The technique to do it is the same as in the back bodice pattern.
Create the shoulder line of the front bodice from the first straight line.
From the second straight line, draw another one at 21 cm from it. This is a quarter of the bust size plus 1 cm.
Mark at 21 cm from the cutting point of this line, which is a quarter of the bust size plus 1 cm.
Continue the perpendicular line on the shoulder to cut the bust line at one point.
From this cutting point, mark inside 2.5 cm, then draw the sleeve line in the same way as in the back bodice.
Draw another straight line at 41 cm from the second one. This is the width from the shoulder to 2 cm above the belly button. It's also the length of the bodice, the same as the back bodice.
The width of the waistline will be 19 cm, which is a quarter of the waist size plus 3 cm for the dart to be created.
Connect the end of the waistline to the end of the sleeve line to create the sideline of the front bodice, making it a big curve after that as well. Ensure the length of this sideline is the same as the back bodice.
From the end of the bust line, mark up 9 cm, which is 1/10 of the bust size plus 1 cm.
Then, draw a horizontal line parallel to the first one. This line will cut the waistline at one point.
From this cutting point, make two marks at 1.5 cm to each side of it.
Connect them to the mark at 3 cm under the bust line to create a dart at the front bodice.

THE FRONT BODICE PATTERN

Start making the pattern for the dress based on the basic bodice pattern.
From the top of the shoulder line, mark down at 26 cm, which is the width from the shoulder to under the bust.
Draw a straight line through that mark to create the under-bust line of the front bodice.
From the end of the bust line, mark inside 1 cm first.
Use a bra cup to copy the curved line, ensuring the top of the bra cup aligns with the mark on the bust line made earlier.
After that, draw a perpendicular line from the other top of the bra cup to connect to the sideline of the bodice.
Here are two pieces of the front bodice pattern: the side piece and the centerpiece.

THE BACK BODICE PATTERN

Moving to the back bodice pattern, use the side piece pattern of the front bodice to continue the line from the front to the back.
Here are two pieces of the back bodice pattern: the side piece and the centerpiece.

THE BUSTIER PATTERN

For the bustier pattern, measure the width and length of the bra cup first. Draw a rectangle with the same length and width as the bra cup measured. Draw a straight line to divide the rectangle into two equal parts.
From the top width line, draw another horizontal line at 4.5 cm below it. This is the width of the top part of the bustier pattern, which is also 1/3 of the rectangle's width plus 0.5 cm.
From the end of the top width line, mark inside 1 cm and draw a perpendicular line from it. The width of this line will be 0.5 cm.
Draw a slightly curved line from the end of the perpendicular line to connect to the end of the straight line.
At the other end of the top width line, mark inside 0.5 cm.
Draw a perpendicular line from it with a width of 1 cm.
Connect the end of this perpendicular line to the top of the straight line with a slightly curved line.
From the end of the horizontal line, mark up 1 cm on the two lane lines of the rectangle. Connect these marks to the end of the curved line made earlier.
Draw a slightly curved line to connect these marks to the cutting point between the straight line and the horizontal line. This forms the top pattern of the bustier part.
From the cutting point between the straight line and the horizontal line, make two marks at 0.8 cm on the horizontal line.
On the right-side lane line, mark in the middle first, then connect this mark to one of the horizontal line marks made earlier. Also, connect this mark to the end of the straight line.
On the left-side lane line, mark in the middle first, then make another mark 1 cm above it. Connect this mark to the other mark on the horizontal line made earlier. Also, connect it to the end of the straight line.
From the middle of the under-slanted line, draw a perpendicular line with a width of 1 cm below it.
From the upper-slanted line, draw a perpendicular line with a width of 0.5 cm above it.
Connect the ends of the perpendicular lines to the ends of the slanted lines using curved lines. This creates the inside and outside patterns of the bustier part. Make notes for each part before cutting.
Here are the bustier patterns after that.

Add seam allowance to all the patterns afterward, except for the middle line of the front center piece, as it will be cut on folded fabric.
Add 2 cm of seam allowance to the middle line of the back center piece.