DIY BLAZER (with lining & front pocket) | I tried to make a Blazer suit - Part 1
DIY Blazer
Welcome or welcome back to my sewing blog!
In today’s post, I’m excited to share with you my experience of making a Blazer. It was my first time trying out this complicated DIY, but the end result was perfect.
I can’t wait to share with you the process and the tips that I learned along the way. I hope you will find it helpful and inspiring.
Let’s get started!
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
2m of cotton khaki fabric
2m of cotton lining fabric
Pattern paper
Sewing machine
Pins
Scissors
Ruler
Long stick
MAKING THE PATTERNS
Here’s the pattern for the project. To get a clear understanding of all the measurements needed for the pattern, watch the video from 0:26.
Remember, you can adjust these measurements to fit your own dimensions!
THE BACK PATTERN
The back pattern
Draw a rectangle with 70 cm length which is the length from the shoulder to the middle of your butt. It's the length of the blazer that you want and 25 cm width which is a quarter of your hip size plus 3 cm.
At one width line which is the top of the blazer, draw a straight line at 2.5 cm outside the rectangle. It's the width of the shoulders.
From this straight line, mark up 7 cm which is a half of the neck of the blazer that you want. Then connect this mark to one end of the width line of the rectangle next to it. After that, draw a curved line based on it to finish the neckline for the back of the blazer.
From one end of the straight line, keep marking up 19 cm which is a half of the shoulder of the blazer that you want. Then draw a 4 cm horizontal line from that mark. It’s one tenth of the length of the shoulder. Then connect the end of this horizontal line to the end of the neckline to finish the shoulder line for the back of the blazer.
Based on the end of the shoulder line, draw another straight line then draw a new straight line 18 cm from that one. It's one by five your bust size. From the new straight line, keep drawing another one 3 cm from it and this will be the bust line of the blazer.
From the top of the length line, draw another straight line at 38 cm which is the length from the shoulder to under your breast and above the belly button. It's right at your waist and this will be the waistline of the blazer.
On the bust line, mark at 23.5 cm which is a quarter of your bust size plus three centimeters. On the waistline, mark at 21.5 cm which is a quarter of your waist size plus 5 cm then connect these marks together and to the end of the other length line to create the sideline of the blazer. Based on this line, draw a curved line to make the sideline smoother.
At the end of the shoulder line, draw a horizontal line down to the second straight line. From the meeting point, mark 2.5 cm inside then connect this mark to the end of the shoulder line. After that, mark at the middle of this line then draw a curved line from the end of the bust line go to the meeting point, this mark, and the end of the shoulder line. This will be the sleeve line of the back blazer.
At the end of the sideline, mark up 1 cm then connect it to the end of the other length line of the rectangle to finish the ending line of the back blazer.
After that, add 1 cm of seam allowance except 3 cm for the ending line and you will have the back pattern of the blazer after cutting.
THE FRONT PATTERN
The front pattern
To make the front pattern copy the back pattern first.
At the sleeve line, instead of 2.5 cm, move inside 3 cm from the meeting point then redraw the sleeve line similar to the way you did with the back pattern.
Because the front pattern will have the button area in the middle, add 2 cm extra at one side of the pattern.
From the end of the shoulder line, add 2 cm extra first then connect it to the end of the waistline which will be the end of the collar of the blazer that you want.
From the top of the collar line, mark inside 10 cm first then draw a perpendicular line from that mark. After that, draw another perpendicular line at 3 cm next to the first one. From the meeting point between the collar line and the second perpendicular line, mark out 8 cm which is the width of the smaller part of the collar that you want.
Connect this mark to the end of the collar line. After that, also connect this mark to the meeting point between the collar line and the third perpendicular line then mark in the middle of that line later.
From the meeting point of the collar line and the first perpendicular line, mark out 10 cm which is the width of the bigger part of the collar that you want. Then connect this mark to the mark at the middle you just made before that.
From the end of the shoulder line, mark 1 cm inside first then draw a perpendicular line from it later. This line will meet the smaller part of the collar at one point.
Check the length of the neckline at the back pattern first, then mark the length on the perpendicular line you just made before that. From this mark, move in 1.5 cm then draw a curved line from it go through the meeting point on the shoulder line to the meeting point between the small and the big part of the collar.
At the end of this line, draw another perpendicular line with a 7 cm length. It's the width of the back collar. Then draw another curved line to make the ending of the big part of the collar.
Cut this part of the collar out of the front pattern then add seam allowance for them. You will have the front pattern of the blazer and the back pattern of the collar.
THE LINING PATTERN
To make the lining inside the blazer, use the front pattern to do it.
At the end of the front pattern, mark 7 cm to inside. At the shoulder line, mark at the middle then connect two marks together.
After that, draw two lines 1 cm outside this line for seam allowance for the lining parts. You will have two patterns for the lining parts of the front blazer
THE SLEEVE PATTERN
Draw two lines cutting each other first.
From the cutting point, mark to the right 15.5 cm which is one by five your bust size minus 2 cm. After that, check the total length of the sleeves at the front and the back pattern first then draw a line from the mark you make before to the straight line with the length is half of the sleeve you just check. Do the same for the other side.
Divide the width of the right part of the horizontal line into three equal parts, then draw a straight line from each mark later.
From the meeting point between the top straight line to two lines next to it, mark up 3 cm and 2cm. 3-cm part will be the front of the sleeve and 2-cm part will be the back of the sleeve.
Draw a curved line based on the meeting points to finish the sleeve line for the sleeve. Make sure the length of this line will be the same with the total length of the sleeve lines at the front and the back pattern.
From the top of the sleeve, measure and mark at 62 cm which is the length of the sleeve that you want. Then draw a straight line through that mark later.
From this mark, mark at 13 cm on 2 sides so the width between two marks will be 26 cm which is the width at the end of the sleeve you want. Then connect these marks to two ends of the sleeve line.
From the meeting point between the top straight line and the line next to it, draw a horizontal line parallel with the middle one. At the other half of the sleeve, mark at a quarter of the line first then draw a horizontal line from that mark in parallel with the middle one.
Cut the pattern into three pieces by the horizontal lines you draw before that.
After cutting, connect two small pieces together and you will have a big part and a small part of the sleeve. Add a 1 cm seam allowance for them. However, add 3-cm seam allowance at 12 cm at the end of the sleeve to create the opening for the sleeve there later.
SEWING THE BLAZER
CUT THE PIECES
Cut out two pieces for the back pattern, one with the main fabric and one with the lining fabric.
Remember to cut the fabric in full.
Cut out two pieces for the front pattern in the main fabric.
Cut two pieces of the first inside pattern with the main fabric and two pieces of the second inside pattern with the lining fabric.
Cut out two pieces of the second part of the collar in full fabric as well.
For the sleeve, you will need two pieces of the big sleeve pattern and two pieces of the small sleeve pattern in the main fabric.
Cut the same pieces in the lining fabric also.
Remember that the lining pieces will be shorter than the main pieces by 4 cm.
THE POCKET
Mark the waistline on the fabric first.
Draw another line at 6 cm next to it. This will be the position for the pocket that you want.
Mark in the middle of this line first, then from this mark, make two more marks outside of it with 12 cm away from each other. This is the width of the pocket that you want.
Cut a small rectangle with 3 cm width and 16 cm length, which is 4 cm longer than the width of the pocket.
Add the lining for this rectangle to make it harder.
Add this rectangle next to the pocket line and mark two ends of the pocket first, then sew.
Remember to make this seam close to the edge of the rectangle.
Do the same for the other side of the pocket line.
After sewing, fold a small part of the rectangle inside the bigger part, then sew.
Make a seam on the first one so it will look like one seam only.
After that, cut the pocket line. However, at two ends of the pocket line, make the cut to two sides at two ends of the rectangles.
Then turn two rectangles to another side of the front piece and sew the end to keep them there.
SEW THE MAIN BODY & COLLAR
Add an interfacing for the first lining part of the front piece to create a shape for the collar of the blazer.
Connect the first lining piece to the front piece by the pin.
Then use the front pattern to mark where the front collar meets the back collar.
Sew from that mark to the end of the front blazer.
After sewing, turn the lining part to inside and make the under stitching at the collar and the button area of the front pieces.
After sewing, turn the lining part to inside and make the under stitching at the collar and the button area of the front pieces.
Now connect the front and the back of the blazer together at the main fabric only.
At the back of the collar, add the interfacing for it to make it thicker.
Connect two pieces of the back collar together first, then sew it.
After that, cut the extra fabric a bit and turn the back collar inside out.
Make the under stitching seam to keep all the end fabric to one side.
Now connect the outside piece of the back collar to the blazer at the neckline.
After sewing, keep connecting the first lining part of the front to the inside piece of the back collar. However, keep one centimeter open at the end.
Connect the second lining of the front blazer to the first lining.
Then connect the lining of the back blazer to the lining of the front blazer at the shoulder.
After that, connect the neckline of the lining to the inside piece of the back collar.
The next step is connecting the sideline of the back and the front together. Remember to connect them separately for the main fabric and the lining fabric.
Remember to connect them separately for the main fabric and the lining fabric.
Here is how the main body of the blazer looks like after that.
At the end of the blazer, connect the ending line of the rim fabric to the lining fabric
After that, turn the lining to inside by the sleeve to hide all the stitching inside
Connect the lining and the main fabric together at the sleeve.
SEW THE SLEEVE
Connect two pieces of the sleeve together at the middle line first.
Do the same for both the main fabric and the lining fabric.
Do the same for both the main fabric and the lining fabric.
Connect the fabric and the lining fabric at the end of the middle line of the sleeve.
Then connect the other lines of the sleeve together, doing separately for the main fabric and the lining fabric.
After that, connect the end of the sleeve of the main fabric and the lining fabric together so you can turn the lining sleeve inside to hide the stitching.
Finally, connect the top of the sleeve of the main fabric and the lining fabric together.
CONNECT THE SLEEVE
Connect the sleeves to the main body of the blazer by pinning them first.
Make a circle fabric with 4 cm width and 50 cm length, which is the same length as the sleeve.
Connect the circle fabric to the sleeve and sew them altogether.
After the first seam, fold the other end of the circle fabric inside around one centimeter first, then keep folding to this first seam and make the second seam.
Sew the seam for the sleeves.
DIY Blazer
And there we have it!
It was my first time trying out this complicated DIY, but the end result was perfect. I hope you found my step-by-step guide helpful and inspiring.
If you’re interested in making your own blazer, give it a try and let me know how it goes!
Until then, happy sewing!