DIY Puff sleeve ruffle collar dress with ruffle hem - Step by step sewing tutorial

DIY Puff sleeve ruffle collar dress with ruffle hem - Step by step sewing tutorial

Welcome or welcome back to my channel. My name is Jess and I love doing DIY, making clothes in a "simply but pretty" way.

In today's tutorial, I'm going to share with you how I made my Puff sleeve ruffle collar dress with ruffle hem. I used the mix of velvet and cotton fabric for this DIY to make the dress more suitable for fall season. It's not cold here. So I made a short sleeve. But you can turn it into a long sleeve and it'll be a perfect outfit for this season. It's very easy to make by following my detail step by step tutorial.

So I hope you like it and try it out. Let’s get started!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 3m of velvet mix cotton fabric

• Pattern paper

• Sewing machine

• Pins

• Scissors

• Ruler

• Long stick

• Zipper

• Buttons

MAKING THE PATTERNS

Here’s the pattern for the project. To get a clear understanding of all the measurements needed for the pattern, watch the video from 0:35 to 7:05.

Remember, you can adjust these measurements to fit your own dimensions!

THE BACK PATTERN OF THE TOP

1. To make the back pattern of the top, draw a rectangle with a length of 38 cm, which is the length from the shoulder to over the breast, around 3 cm above the belly button, plus 2 cm for seam allowance. The width is 44 cm, which is half of the bust size plus 4 cm.

2. Draw a straight line in the middle of the rectangle to divide it into two smaller sections.

3. At the top of this straight line, mark 8 cm on each side, which is half the width of the neck minus 1 cm. The total width between the two marks will be 16 cm, which is the desired width of the neck minus 2 cm for seam allowance.

4. From the top of the straight line, mark down 3 cm first, then connect this mark to the two neck marks made earlier.

5. Based on these lines, draw a curved line to complete the neckline of the back pattern.

6. From the two neck marks, mark out 9 cm. The total width between these new marks will be 34 cm, which is the width between the two shoulders plus 2 cm for seam allowance.

7. From that mark on the shoulder line, draw a straight line down.

8. From the top corner of the front pattern, mark down 22 cm, which is the measurement from the shoulder to over the armpit. This is also the width of the sleeve. Then, draw a curved line to connect the shoulder line just drawn.

9. From the shoulder line, mark down 2 cm, then connect that mark to the mark of the neck.

10. After that, redraw the curved line to that mark so it becomes perpendicular to the line between the shoulder line and the neckline.

11. Repeat the same steps for the other side.

THE FRONT PATTERN OF THE TOP

1. Based on the back pattern of the top to make the front pattern of the top.

2. Fold the back pattern first, then draw along it on the paper to copy.

3. From the shoulder line, draw a line 2 cm inward. Then, draw a perpendicular line from that mark to redraw the curved sleeve line.

4. On the neckline, draw another line 18 cm away from it, which is the depth of the neck. This should be around the middle of the breast area.

5. From the second line of the shoulder, mark a point parallel to the shoulder line. Then, connect it to the mark on the neckline to complete the front neckline.

6. Draw a slightly curved line at the top of the neckline where it meets the shoulder to create a smooth connection between the neck and the shoulder.

7. At the front, there are two pieces like this, so add 1 cm extra at the middle for seam allowance.

THE SLEEVE PATTERN

1. To make the sleeve pattern, draw a horizontal line with a 50 cm width. It is the desired sleeve width. Make sure it matches or is slightly longer than the width from the shoulder to over the armpit. From this line, draw two horizontal lines—one 18 cm above and one 16 cm below. The width between these two new lines will be 34 cm, which is the sleeve length plus 3 cm for seam allowance.

2. Draw a straight line in the middle of the first horizontal line to divide the rectangle into two smaller sections.

3. Use the front and back top patterns to copy the sleeve line, but only copy the end of the sleeve while keeping the rest open.

4. Draw a curved line to connect both ends of the sleeve. Make sure the length of this curved line is longer than the sleeve line length at the front and back patterns to allow extra fabric for creating the puffy effect at the top of the sleeve later.

THE COLLAR PATTERN

1. To make the collar pattern, fold the shoulder lines at the front and back patterns by 1 cm to hide the seam allowance first.

1. Then, apply them to the paper to copy the neckline.

2. From this neckline, draw another line 7 cm outside it. This measurement is the width of the shoulder line of the top minus 2 cm for the ruffle part of the collar. So, the width of the collar at the ends will align with the shoulder of the top.

3. At the end of the neckline, mark 1 cm inside. This is the width of the ruffle part of the collar minus 1 cm for seam allowance.

4. Then, connect this mark to the end of the outside neckline. This creates half of the collar pattern.

THE POCKET PATTERN

1. To make the pocket pattern, cut a rectangle with a 20 cm width and a 30 cm length.

2. On one length line, mark the middle first. Then, connect this mark to one end of the other length line with a curved line.

SEWING THE DRESS

THE TOP OF THE DRESS

Apply the pattern to the fabric and draw along.

One piece of the back pattern, two pieces of the front pattern, two pieces of the collar pattern, and four pieces of the pocket pattern are needed.

At the two pieces of the front pattern, connect them together at the middle first.

Then, connect the front and the back at the shoulder and two sides.

For the sleeve, connect two under-armpit lines together first.

Then, from the end of the sleeve, draw a line 3 cm inside it.

Fold the end fabric inside around 0.5 cm first, then keep folding it to the line drawn before. So, the width of this folding line will be around 1.5 cm, which is bigger than the width of the elastic band used.

When sewing, keep a small unsewn space for the elastic band to go through later.

Cut a 24 cm length of the elastic band, which is the width of the arm plus 2 cm, so the end of the sleeve won't be too tight on the arm.

Then, connect two ends of the elastic band together.

After that, don't forget to close the unsewn space.

At the top of the sleeve, make a loose seam first, then create a gathering fabric there later.

Make sure the gathering fabric is around the top of the sleeve.

And the final width is the same as the sleeve line at the top of the bodice.

Then, connect the sleeve to the top bodice.

For the collar, check the width of the outside collar first.

Then, cut a long fabric with a 6 cm width, which is twice the width of the ruffle part of the collar plus 2 cm for seam allowance and 1.5 to 2 times the length of the outside line of the collar.

Fold the fabric along the width line first, then make a loose seam along the length line later.

After that, create a gathering fabric there.

Make sure the final length of the gathering fabric matches the outside line of the collar so the ruffle can be connected to the collar later.

Then, connect the ruffle and the collar together.

After sewing, connect it to the other pieces of the collar so the ruffle part will be in the middle between two pieces of the collar.

Then, sew the outside line of the collar.

Turn the collar right side out.

Then, connect the collar to the neckline of the top bodice.

After that, check the length of the inside collar.

Then, make a circular fabric piece with the same length and 2 cm width.

Connect it to the length of the inside collar using pins, then sew.

After sewing, fold the fabric over the first seam to hide the end fabric inside, then make the second seam. Then, sew.

THE BOTTOM OF THE DRESS

To make the bottom of the dress, cut a rectangle with a 67 cm length (which is 3 cm above the belly button to the knee) and a 64 cm width (which is 1.4 times half of the hip size).

From the top line of the bottom of the dress, mark down 6 cm on both sides.

Then, attach the pocket to that mark using pins and sew.

Then, connect the front and the back of the bottom dress at two sides.

To create depth for the pocket, mark down 14 cm from the top of the pocket. This is the open area of the pocket where a hand can fit in.

Then sew the rest together.

Cut a rectangle fabric with a 27 cm length, so the total length of the bottom dress will be 94 cm (which is the length of the dress plus 4 cm for seam allowance) and 192 cm width (which is 1.5 times the length of the top bottom part).

First, connect two length lines of the long fabric together to create a circular fabric piece.

Then, at one width line, fold the end fabric inside twice and sew to finish it.

At the top width line, make a loose seam first, then create a gathering fabric there later.

Make sure the gathering fabric matches the width of the top of the bottom part.

Now, connect the end of the bottom part and the top of the bottom dress together.

At the top of the bottom dress, make a loose seam first, then create a gathering fabric there later.

Make sure the gathering fabric matches the width at the end of the top dress.

Now, connect the bodice and the bottom of the dress together.

DIY Puff sleeve ruffle collar dress with ruffle hem - Step by step sewing tutorial

And here’s the final look!

This ruffle-collared dress is perfect for the season, and you can easily adjust the sleeve length to your liking.

I hope you found my step-by-step guide helpful and inspiring.

If you’re interested in making your own, give it a try and let me know how it goes!

Until then, happy sewing!