DIY Tweed jacket (with lining) in the simple way | Step by step sewing tutorial
DIY Tweed jacket (with lining) in the simple way | Step by step sewing tutorial
Welcome or welcome back to my channel!
In today's tutorial, I'm going to share with you how to a Tweed jacket with the lining. This is not a complicated DIY. And the result is just stunning.
So I hope you will try it out. Let’s get started!
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
1.5m of tweet fabric for the main fabric
1.2m of cotton fabric for the lining part
Pattern paper
Sewing machine
Pins
Scissors
Ruler
Long stick
Zipper
Buttons
MAKING THE PATTERNS
Here’s the pattern for the project. To get a clear understanding of all the measurements needed for the pattern, watch the video from 0:27 to 9:25.
Remember, you can adjust these measurements to fit your own dimensions!
THE BACK BODICE PATTERN
The back bodice pattern
Draw a straight line and a horizontal line intersecting each other.
From the first straight line, draw another one 2 cm next to it. From the intersection point of this line and the horizontal line, mark up 8.5 cm, which is half the neck size of the jacket.
Then, draw a perpendicular line from that mark, with a width of 3 cm, which is the depth of the neck at the back bodice.
Next, draw a straight line from the end of the perpendicular line.
Draw a slanted line connecting the end of the new straight line to the mark on the second straight line. Mark the middle of this slanted line first, then connect it to the end of the perpendicular line.
Continue marking in the middle of the new slanted line, then connect it to the mark on the second straight line and the end of the third straight line. Based on this, draw a slightly curved line to create the neckline at the back bodice.
From the intersection point between the second straight line and the horizontal line, draw another one at 19 cm, which is half of the shoulder size, then draw a perpendicular line from that mark. The width of this line will be 3.2 cm, which is one-tenth of the shoulder size minus 0.5 cm.
Connect the end of the perpendicular line to the neckline mark to create the shoulder line of the back bodice.
From the second straight line, draw another one 24 cm away from it, representing a quarter of the bust size plus 4 cm, which forms the bust line of the back bodice. From the intersection point of this line and the horizontal line, mark up 23 cm, which is a quarter of the bust size plus 3 cm, then extend the perpendicular line from the shoulder to intersect with the bust line. From this intersection point, mark inside 1.5 cm on the bust line, and connect this mark to the end of the shoulder line.
Mark the middle of this slanted line first, then connect it to the bust line mark made earlier.
Continue marking in the middle of the new slanted line before connecting it to the second mark on the bust line.
Repeat the same process for the new slanted line, then draw a curved line to create the sleeve line of the back bodice.
From the second straight line, draw another one 50 cm away, representing the length from the shoulder to the hip and the jacket length. From the intersection point of this line and the horizontal line, mark up 23 cm, matching the mark on the bust line, and connect that mark to the end of the sleeve line on the bust line to create the sideline of the back bodice.
Add 1 cm for seam allowance, except for 3 cm at the end of the back bodice. This completes the back bodice pattern, which should be cut on folded fabric at the horizontal line.
THE FRONT BODICE PATTERN
The front bodice pattern
Moving to the front bodice, base it on the back bodice pattern. Instead of creating the shoulder line from the second straight line, do it from the first one.
From the intersection point between the first straight line and the horizontal line, mark 8 cm on the horizontal line, representing the depth of the neck for the front jacket.
Draw a curved line from the end of the new shoulder line to this mark to create a front neckline.
From the intersection point between the perpendicular shoulder line and the bust line, mark 2.5 cm inside the bust line and connect it to the end of the new shoulder line.
From the end of the sleeve line, mark 1 cm outside the bust line so that the bust line at the front jacket will be 24 cm, 1 cm larger than the back.
Create the sleeve line for the front bodice in the same way as for the back bodice. Because the bust line was increased by 1 cm, do the same for the ending line.
To create the button and buttonhole area, draw a horizontal line 2 cm outside the current one, with 2 cm representing half the width of the button area.
Add 1 cm for seam allowance, except for 3 cm at the ending line. This completes the front bodice pattern, which should be cut in two pieces in reverse.
THE SLEEVE PATTERN
The sleeve pattern
Measure the total length of the sleeve lines on the front and back bodice first.
Draw a straight line intersecting with a horizontal line. From the intersection point, mark 11 cm to the right of the horizontal line, which is 1.5 times the bust size minus 5 cm.
Draw a slanted line from this mark to intersect with the straight line at one point. The width of the slanted line will be half the total sleeve width of the front and back bodice combined, minus 2 cm.
Divide this slanted line into three equal parts.
From the middle of the first two parts, draw a perpendicular line 2 cm wide outside the slanted line.Mark the middle of the third equal part, then draw a perpendicular line 0.5 cm wide inside the slanted line.
Draw a curved line passing through this mark to create the sleeve line for the sleeve pattern. Make sure the sleeve line’s width is half the total sleeve line width of the front and back bodice.
From the top of the sleeve, mark 60 cm on the horizontal line, representing the length from the shoulder to over the wrist, which is the desired sleeve length. Draw a straight line from this mark.
From the end of this straight line, mark 14 cm up, which is half the width of the sleeve end. Make sure this width is larger than the hand width for easy wear. Connect this mark to the end of the sleeve line to create the underarm line. Make this line a large curve for a neater finish.
Add 1 cm for seam allowance, except for 3 cm at the sleeve end, then cut the sleeve pattern on folded fabric along the horizontal line.
THE LINING PATTERN
THE BACK BODICE PATTERN
From the neckline of the back bodice pattern, draw a curved line 8 cm inside it.
Remove the seam allowance at the bottom of the back bodice. This creates two parts of the back bodice lining.
Add 1 cm for seam allowance along the new curved line.
These are the two pieces of the back bodice lining.
THE FRONT BODICE PATTERN
For the front bodice lining, draw a curved line 8 cm inside the neckline. Also, draw another straight line 8 cm inside the center line of the front bodice.
In the middle of these two lines, create a large curve for smoother connections.
Remove the seam allowance at the bottom of the front bodice. This creates two parts of the front bodice lining after cutting along the new curved line.
Add 1 cm for seam allowance along the curved line.
These are the two pieces of the front bodice lining.
THE SLEEVE
For the sleeve lining, simply remove the seam allowance from the sleeve pattern to complete the sleeve lining.
THE FRONT SKIRT PATTERN
The front skirt pattern
To make the front skirt pattern, start by copying the back pattern.
Next, draw a new horizontal line 10 cm outside the current one. This will enlarge the waistline, making it the same as the waistline on the front part of the bodice.
This adjustment allows the two pieces to be connected later, and the front skirt pattern will be complete after cutting.
SEWING THE JACKET
THE BODICE
To create two front pockets for the jacket, cut two rectangles with a 14 cm width, which includes 2 cm for seam allowance, and an 8 cm length, also including 2 cm for seam allowance.
Connect the two rectangles together and sew along three sides, keeping one width line open.
After sewing, make a cut at the edges of the rectangle before turning it inside out.
Use an iron to make the pocket neater and sew to close the open part of the pocket.
On the front bodice piece, place the top of the pocket at the bust line, centered between the sideline and button line, and then sew.
After the first seam, cut the extra of the fabric to make it shorter.
Then fold the pocket over and make a second seam. This creates a fake pocket on the front bodice.
Repeat for the other front bodice piece.
Next, connect the front and back bodice at the shoulders on both sides.
THE LINING
For the lining part of the bodice, connect the two back bodice lining pieces together along the curved line.
Repeat the process for the two front bodice lining pieces to finish the lining of the main bodice.
Then connect the front and back bodice lining pieces at the shoulders on both sides.
Now, attach the main fabric and lining fabric of the bodice together at the neckline, button line, and the ending line using pins.
Sew the endling line first, followed by the button line, and finish by sewing the remaining parts together.
Before turning, make a few cuts at the edges of the bodice.
Turn the main fabric and lining fabric right-side out through the sleeve opening.
Use an iron to press the seams and ensure the jacket looks neat.
Next, connect the sleeve lines of both the main fabric and the lining fabric. This completes the main bodice of the jacket.
THE SLEEVE
For the sleeves, connect two under armpit lines together.
Then repeat the process for the sleeve lining.
Turn the sleeve lining right-side out and place it inside the main fabric sleeve.
Connect the endling line of both the lining and the main fabric. Then sew them together.
Turn the lining to hide the seam inside the sleeve, then place the lining inside the main sleeve.
Next, attach the sleeve lining and main fabric sleeve lines together and sew. This completes the sleeves of the jacket.
CONNECT THE SLEEVE AND THE BODICE
Connect both sleeves to the main bodice by pinning them along the sleeve lines.
Before sewing, cut a long fabric rectangle measuring 3.5 cm wide and 2 cm longer than the total sleeve line width.
Connect the two ends of the rectangle to form a circle.
Connect one side of the circle to the sleeve line and sew.
Fold the other side of the circle up towards the top of the sleeve, then fold it again to the first seam and make a second seam.
The final step is to add buttons and create buttonholes on the front of the jacket.
Place a button on the fake pocket and three buttons at the sleeve ends.
DIY Tweed jacket (with lining) in the simple way | Step by step sewing tutorial
And that’s the finished DIY!
Here’s the final result, and I absolutely love how it turned out.
It’s not a complicated project, but the result is stunning and perfect for the season.
I hope you found my step-by-step guide helpful and inspiring.
If you’re interested in making your own, give it a try and let me know how it goes!
Until then, happy sewing!